Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Westvleteren vs. St. Bernardus

One of these things is not like the others...
Disclaimer: this tasting didn't go how I wanted it to.  Not the results, the tasting itself.

A few weeks ago there was a multi-birthday party at the home of our friends Brett and Debbie.  Since lots of our beer-loving crowd was going to be there, I decided it was time to trot out the bottles of Westvleteren 8 and 12 (one of each) that I brought back from Belgium this summer.

To make it more interesting, I decided to make it a blind tasting, comparing the Westy 12 with St. Bernardus Abt 12.  Westvleteren 12 is one of the world's rarest and most sought-after beers: it is only distributed at the Abbey St. Sixtus where it is produced.  St. Bernardus is very easy to find: I bought the bottle for this tasting for $4 at the CVS on East Burnside.  The two beers are often compared to one another, and have some history in common.  I had tried them side-by-side in Amsterdam, but I knew which was which, so I was probably biased in favor of the rarer, more expensive Westvleteren.  This blind tasting -- with a lot of experienced palates -- would be a great experiment.

But the best laid schemes go oft awry, and so it was with this tasting.  See the bottlecaps in the picture?  I popped the blue bottlecap from the bottle of St. Bernardus and poured some samples into small glasses, and then popped the Westvleteren bottle with the blue bottlecap and divided up that beer.  Westvleteren bottles don't have paper labels, so the bottlecap was my indication of which style was in each bottle.  In my excitement about what a fun tasting this would be I let the color fool me instead of reading the numbers, which means that instead of comparing two similar quadrupels, I had pitted  Abt 12 against the dubbel Westy 8 -- also a fine beer, but quite a bit subtler than the 12.  I didn't realize the mistake until all the glasses had been passed around and drained, and I went to open the third bottle as Act Two of my show and tell.  "OK, now try the Westvleteren eigh... uh oh."

Not too surprisingly, the Abt 12 handily defeated the Westy 8 in the blind tasting, 5 votes to 2 -- hey, a couple of people enjoyed the more subtle pleasures of the dubbel, anyway.  Before I knew about the mix-up, I was perplexed by how different the Westvleteren was than my memory of it from a few weeks earlier.  And I was even more disappointed because the Abt 12 seemed a little cloying to me that day, not worthy to knock off such a sought-after beer.

We did share the Westy 12 around after that.  It was as spectacular as I remembered it being, and in my opinion was better than a 3 year-old Westy 12 that Angelo generously shared with a few people back in August.  Cellaring beer is fun, but sometimes your best bet is to drink things fresh.  At the party, I think most of us agreed that the Westvleteren 12 was indeed a notch above the St. Bernardus.  But by then the damage had been done -- it wasn't a blind tasting anymore.

Almost forgot to mention: it was this tweet by Matt at portlandbeer.org that inspired me to finally write this up!

Friday, October 7, 2011

2011 Fresh Hop Tastival Checklist

Fresh hops, click, fresh hops, click, fresh hops... Yes, I am a broken record at this time of year.  It's just that the beers are so good, so special, and so fleeting, that it becomes something of an obsession.

The Oregon Brewer's Guild/Oregon Bounty Portland Fresh Hop Tastival takes place tomorrow (Saturday, October 8, 2011) at Oaks Park, noon to 8 PM.  Scroll past the confusing east-is-up map on this page to see the beer list.  Kids are allowed, and if the weather is nice -- unlike last year -- the picnic area just outside the festival building is a great place to mingle in the fresh air.  As with any beer festival, the earlier you can arrive, the happier you'll be.  There is usually drinking water available, but the most convenient option is usually to bring your own.

There are still some entries on the Tastival list that I haven't tried yet, even after the Hood River Hops Fest and several weeks of trying an average of one new fresh hop beer a day.  So I'll be out there trying to fill in those blanks.  Meanwhile, here's my updated list of 2011 fresh hop beers, divided into these four categories:  fresh-hop beers you must try; beers that show off fresh hops well enough; beers that are really good but where I didn't really notice much fresh hop flavor; finally, beers to avoid.  The ones that will be available at Oaks Park this weekend are marked with "(Oaks)". [Update 2011/10/08: and new ones I tried at Oaks Park are marked with italic "(Oaks)".]

Must-try:
  • Deschutes Fresh Hop Mirror Pond (Oaks)
  • Deschutes Fresh Hop Twilight Ale
  • Full Sail Lupulin (with Tettnanger hops) (Oaks)
  • Breakside Fresh Hop IPA
  • Laurelwood Cavalry IPA
  • The Commons Fresh Hop Farmhouse (Oaks)
  • Big Horse Vernon the Rabbit Slayer
  • Elysian Kama Citra
  • Logsdon Fresh Hop Sezoen (Oaks)
  • Two Beers The Fresh Hop
  • Alameda Citronix (Oaks)
  • Double Mountain Killer Red
  • New Belgium Fresh Hop IPA
  • Bridgeport Hop Harvest (Oaks)
  • Laurelwood Laurelfest Vienna Lager (Oaks)
  • Deschutes Hop Trip (Oaks)
  • MacTarnahan's Fresh Hop Mac's Amber (Oaks)
  • Coalition Green Pig (Oaks)
  • Laurelwood Fresh Hop Free Range Red (Oaks) 
  • Green Dragon (OBC) Sophie Harvest Ale (Oaks)  
  • Ft. George CoHoporative Ale
  • Terminal Gravity Wild Wild Wet 
Good fresh hop beers:
  • Full Sail Lupulin (with Magnum hops) (Oaks)
  • Sierra Nevada Northern Hemisphere Harvest
  • Rogue Chatoe Wet Hop (Oaks)
  • Ninkasi Tricerarillo (Oaks)
  • Hopworks Fest of Fury (Oaks)
  • Widmer Liberty Fresh Hop Lager (Oaks)
  • Deschutes Fresh Hop Inversion IPA
  • Pelican Elemental Ale (Oaks)
  • Migration 69 Pound Perle (Oaks)
  • Fremont Brewing Cowiche Canyon Fresh Hop Pale
  • Oakshire Triune Wet Hop Pale Ale (Oaks)
  • Everybody's Brewing Head Stash Pale Ale
  • Iron Horse Fresh Hop Loco Red 
  • Schooner Exact Fresh Hop IPA
  • Full Sail Hopenfrisch Pilsner (Oaks)
  • Great Divide Fresh Hop Pale
  • Lucky Lab The Mutt (Oaks)
  • Rock Bottom Hop Harvest (Oaks)
  • McMenamin's Thundercone (Oaks)
  • Cascade Lakes Harvest Ale (Oaks)
Tasty beers, not much fresh-hop flavor:
  • Full Sail Lupulin (with Centennial hops) (Oaks)
  • Breakside Fresh Hop CDA
  • Long Brewing Fresh Hop IPA #1
  • Port Brewing High Tide IPA
  • Double Mountain Killer Green (Oaks)
  • Hopworks Give me Liberty... (Oaks)
  • Lompoc Crystal Missile (Oaks)
  • Cascade Fresh Hop Porter (Oaks)
  • Old Market Nugget IPA (Oaks)
  • Snipes Mountain The Hooch 
  • Ninkasi Total Crystallization (Oaks)
  • Upright Hits from the Vine (Oaks)
  • Gilgamesh Fresh Prince 
  • Big Horse Red Fang
  • Seven Seas Hop Prophet
  • Seven Brides Fresh Hop Emily's Ember (Oaks)
  • Coalition Liquid Sterling (Oaks)
  • Beer Valley Fresh Hop Leafer Madness (Oaks) 
  • Gilgamesh Fresh Hop Double IPA
Avoid:
  • Ft. George Fresh Hop Vortex IPA (Oaks)
  • Burnside Nuggets with Attitude (Oaks)
  • Deschutes Fresh Hop Chainbreaker White IPA
  • Lucky Lab Reaperweizen (Oaks)
  • Portland U-Brew King Harvest (Oaks) 
  • Philadelphia's Willamette in the Rye (Oaks) 

Of course, those are just my opinions, and your mileage may vary. But if you see something in the top two categories that ordinarily you would have skipped, give it a try at the Tastival or around town. A good example is the Fresh Hop Mac's Amber. The last couple years it hasn't been too exciting, and I had low expectations this time since Mac's excellent head brewer Vasili Gletsos jumped to Laurelwood earlier in the year, but the 2011 batch of Fresh Hop Mac's is really outstanding.

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Hood River Hops Fest 2011

Early autumn in the Northwest is marked by the return of the rain and drastically shorter days, but brings with it a special compensation: beer flavored with fresh hops.  The Hood River Hops Fest kicks off a series of fresh hop beer festivals around Oregon each year, and I was glad to finally make it the HRHF for the first time last Saturday.  The weather could not have been nicer, the crowd was bustling but manageable, and there were some very nicely done beers on tap.

There were 38 fresh hop beers offered up, and I had already slimmed down the task ahead of me by scouting out 16 of them around Portland in the couple of weeks that the fresh stuff has been out. I also cut a few corners by skipping Portland breweries that I knew I could easily catch up with if I didn't get to those beers at a festival. Even so, the taps started drying up mid-afternoon, and I missed out on a couple of beers that I intended to try: Pelican Elemental Ale and Beer Valley Fresh Hop Leafer Madness. Those are pretty popular numbers, and both are bottled in limited quantities, so I expect to track them down somehow or another. Is it just a coincidence that these are also the two breweries that give me so much trouble every time I go to compile the Portland Beer Price Index?

My favorites of the day were:
  • Big Horse Vernon the Rabbit Slayer -- giant double IPA, with a beautiful flowery hop flavor
  • Elysian Kama Citra -- awesome, very fresh flavor
  • Logsdon Fresh Hop Sezoen -- very different take on fresh hops, nice apricot flavor
  • Double Mountain Killer Red -- malty red ale with good fresh hop presence
  • Ft. George CoHoporative Ale -- great orange blossom hops (lots of Centennials?)
Double Mountain's Killer Green is a yearly favorite, though I tend to complain that the fresh hop greenness gets buried under the massive bitterness, so I was looking forward to trying this year's and comparing it to Killer Red, which I don't recall seeing before.  Killer Red is just as massive, but to my mind does show off the fresh hops better, even though it's built on a darker, roastier beer.

I was a little disappointed in Ninkasi's Total Crystallization -- Total Domination with fresh Crystal hops.  Last year it was stunning, and really a breakthrough for Ninkasi, who had always come up surprisingly short at fresh hop time.  This year it was nicely bitter, with a pleasant grassiness, but not up to the level of last year's.  Their Fresh Hop Tricerarillo had a little more going for it, but could still be better.

There was one disaster at the festival:  Lucky Lab's Reaperweizen, which was either infected or had something else strange going on with it.  A couple weeks ago I had an early taste of Reaperweizen, and it seemed promising at that time, so I don't know what happened in the meantime to it.

The Hood River Hops Festival was a great time; if you've never been, consider going next year.  As with every festival, early is better, as some of the buzz beers were gone in just a few short hours, and by about 7 PM very few of the 52 beer lines were still flowing.

The Portland Fresh Hop Tastival is coming up this Saturday, October 8, 2011 at Oaks Park, 12 - 8 PM (there is also a sneak preview Friday night from 5:30 to 8:30).  I've updated the Fresh Hop 2011 Progress Report with my opinions from the Hood River Festival -- when the Oaks Park taplist is published I'll probably put up another progress report annotating the beers that will be on tap Saturday.